City guide · Italy
Ancient ruins, Baroque fountains, and perfect carbonara
April–May & October–November
Euro (EUR)
Italian
Europe
The guides
Rome stacks 2,800 years of empire, papacy, and la dolce vita into a city where you cross a 2,000-year-old bridge to reach dinner. The Colosseum, the Vatican, and Bernini's fountains are all walkable from trattorias still arguing over whose carbonara is correct.
The shortlist
The single highest-rated picks across every category in Rome.
Hotel de Russie
Piazza del Popolo / Campo Marzio
Hotel Hassler Roma
Spanish Steps, Campo Marzio
Hotel Eden
Via Ludovisi, near Via Veneto
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
Campo de' Fiori
Armando al Pantheon
Pantheon, centro storico
La Pergola
Monte Mario
Stravinskij Bar
Hotel de Russie, Piazza del Popolo
The Court
Colosseo, Monti
Jerry Thomas Speakeasy
Campo de' Fiori / Ponte
Colosseum
Celio / Monti
Pantheon
Pigna, centro storico
Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel
Vatican City
Where to base yourself
Pick your area first — it shapes everything else about the trip.
Across the Tiber, this medieval quarter of ochre walls and cobbled alleys centers on the glittering mosaics of Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of Rome's oldest churches. By night its trattorias and bars make it the city's liveliest dinner destination.
Rome's oldest residential quarter, minutes from the Colosseum, now mixes vintage boutiques and wine bars around the fountain on Piazza della Madonna dei Monti. It is where young Romans actually hang out among the ancient streets.
Built around an artificial hill of ancient amphora shards and the old slaughterhouse, Testaccio is the keeper of true Roman cooking, from its covered market's street food to offal classics. It stays almost entirely local despite holding many of the city's best kitchens.
The tangle between Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and Campo de' Fiori is Rome's Renaissance and Baroque showcase, where every wrong turn produces a fountain or a Caravaggio church. Stay here to walk everywhere and have the piazzas to yourself at dawn.
Beyond the city
Two UNESCO sites in one hill town: the Renaissance water-garden spectacle of Villa d'Este and the sprawling ruins of Emperor Hadrian's 2nd-century country palace.
Rome's remarkably preserved ancient port city, a quieter rival to Pompeii with mosaic-floored baths, a theatre, and apartment blocks you can wander freely.
The papal hill towns south of Rome, ideal for a long lunch of porchetta and chilled Frascati wine overlooking Lake Albano.
Eat like a local
Guanciale, egg yolk, pecorino, and black pepper emulsified into Rome's most jealously guarded pasta — never with cream.
Try it at: Roscioli, Campo de' Fiori
Tonnarelli coated in a deceptively simple sauce of pecorino romano and toasted black pepper.
Try it at: Felice a Testaccio
A fried rice croquette with a molten mozzarella core that pulls into 'telephone wire' strings when torn.
Try it at: Supplizio, Via dei Banchi Vecchi
Crisp, airy pizza by the slice sold by weight, topped with anything from potato-rosemary to mortadella.
Try it at: Pizzarium (Gabriele Bonci), near the Vatican
Good to know
Three full days covers the Colosseum-Forum complex, the Vatican, and the centro storico fountains and piazzas; four lets you add Galleria Borghese and Trastevere at leisure. Book the Colosseum, Vatican, and Borghese before you fly — they are the three that sell out.